RISHIKESH - NORTH INDIA

Spiritual Disneyland

Garhwal Himalayas hold different significance for different people. And Rishikesh is just about that. Adventurers (like of Bradd Pitt), spiritualists (likes of Beatles), Yoga and Meditation enthusiasts (likes of Kate Winslet) maintain a constant bee-line from across the world to this site-of-many-amusements. The ambiance of saffronised hippies and sadhus, an unceasing hum of hypnotic chants, backpackers squatting at every bend of street, and you-name-it merchandisers, might create an instant repulsion at having landed in a madhouse, very different from what you expected. Interestingly, this exactly is the purpose you came here for --- find peace amidst turmoil, spiritual rejuvenation in a world of constant worries! And you can actually find your way through the crowds to that little, precious space you can call your own, and henceforth, carry with you wherever you head, to retire to when you want to. This, and many more of spiritual secrets await you at Rishikesh. And yes, in this spiritual brouhaha, please do not undermine its rivers and rapids, hills and gorges --- it will be not just blasphemous, but foolish. Also, Rishikesh paves the way for the holy Char Dham Yatra of the Hindu pilgrim world.

Tale of the City

“Rishikesh” means the land of the Rishis. The legend says that Rishikesh is the place where Lord Rama came came on the advice of sage Vasishtha to do penance for killing Ravana. The scores of Ashrams and Temples shot up as a result of its confluence of sages and scholars that gathered here to preach, discuss Hindu philosophies and spiritualism. Its veritable positioning -- bounded by the Himalayas and the mighty Ganges roaring past its shores, have shot it to fame newly for a perfect haven for weekend adventurers.

Attractions

Triveni Ghat: Believed to be the confluence of the river Ganges and Chandrabhaga, on the south end of Rishikesh, this is the best place to witness the religious fervor that Rishikesh stands for. Try make it for the Arti ceremony every evening. And do not miss that soul-cleansing holy-dip.

Lakshman Jhoola (5 km): Search for Rishikesh in Google Images, and chances are 90% of them will be that of a suspended bridge, heavily roped. This is the famed Laxman Jhoola – a suspension bridge with iron ropes, named after Ram’s brother Lakshman, who crossed the river on a jute rope. The Raghunath temple and the Lakhman temples lie around this place, worth visiting.

Ram Jhoola (also called Shivanand Joola): A replica of the aforesaid, it leads to the Swargashram from the Shivanand Ashram, providing an alternative to the boat ride from one bank of Ganga to another.

Ashrams at Rishikesh: Fabled time and again, this remains a celebrated fact that the Beatles heralded their quest for spiritual salvation here at Maharishi Mahesh Yogi ashram. Shivanand Ashram (The Divine Society), towards the north of Rishikesh, and however the most famed for its Yoga and Meditation courses, lodging provision for backpackers and believers, charitable hospital and so on. Other prominent Ashrams are Omkarananda Ashram, Vanmali Gita Yogashram, Yoga Niketan Ashram, Dayananda Vedanta Ashram, Yoga Study Center and the Brahma Niwas.

Temples worth a visit: Bharat Mandir, Geeta Bhawan, Tera Manzil Temple.

International Yoga Week: Held every first week of February, you should not miss this event if your tour has coincided the celebration. Yoga maestros from across the globe and enthusiasts turn it into a different world altogether. Organized by the Rishikesh State Tourism, the event has yoga demonstrations, detailed lectures and seminars on Yoga.

How far can your legs dare: An excellent base camp for the treks in to Himalayas, especially to the Neelkanth from Swarg Ashram and to Kunjapuri Temple from Tapovan.

Rocking rapids: Sweet Sixteen (grade-1), Marine Drive (grade-2), Three Blind Mice (grade-3), Cross Fire (Grade-3), roller Coaster (grade-4) and Golf Course (grade-4). No they are not nicknames for beautiful schoolgirls. Adventurers with an water infatuation must have guessed already, while beginners can mug them up if they plan to dare the furious rapids at the 30 km Ganges that flows past Rishikesh right from the Himalayas.

Shopping

Here at Rishikesh, do not expect the razzle-dazzle of the usual Indian shops. All you have to load your bags with are ayurvedic and herbal medicines, religious items of made in brass, incense, bronze shiva statues, prasad and Rudraksh beads. The handicrafts on sale include those rich in beads, made of shells, pearls and wood. Visit UP Handlooms (en route to Haridwar), Khadi Bhandar or the Garhwal wool and craft shop for rugs and sheets.

The Laxman Jhula Area has many emporiums selling Rudraksh Malas, Navratna Mala, and silver Jwellery. Hunt for Jaipur Gems Center, one of the oldest and most reliable exporter of Rudraksh ,Gems studded silver and gold jewelery and pashmina Shawls. In the Ram Jhula Area, Geeta Press Cotton cloth Shop and Geeta Press Book Shop are best for buying locally wearable cotton and philosophical books respectively.

Cuisine

What you will not find in Rishikesh is non-vegetarian cuisine which is banned for obvious reasons – Rishikesh being an religious epicenter. All types and flavors of Indian cuisine is served in its myriad restaurants tucked in every nook and corner of its streets. The best bet for any foreigner, however, remains the Ayurvedic and health food restaurants, perfect for an after-yoga meal. In the main town area, check out Hotel Neelam that serves delectable Indian, and Italian dishes. In the Ram Jhula Area go to the Choti wala Restaurant for that unbeatable Indian ‘thali’, typically ‘Rishikeshised’. The Laxman Jhula Area’s Elachi Restaurent is a good bet for evenings. Do not miss this one called Chotiwala, lored to be the best one in Rishikesh.
Getaways

Kunjapuri (7,000 ft): Famed for its temple dedicated to one of the thirteen most important Goddesses of Shivalik range - Kunjapuri and the surrounding vista of Banderpunch (6316 mts) , Swarga Rohini (6252 mts) Gangotri ( 6672 mts) Chaukhamba (7138 mts) is too beautiful to be put into words.

Haridwar (24 km): Set on the foothills of Shivalik range, Haridwar is the gateway to Chardham (four pilgrimages - Gangotri, Yamunotri, Kedarnath and Badrinath) in the Uttarakhand region. Major attractions of the town are Har Ki Pauri, Mansa Devi Temple, Chanda Devi Temple, Sapt Rishi and Daksh Mahadev Temple. Besides, it is also one of the Shaktipeeths of the country.

Vashistha Cave (1-hr away): Meditate in this fine recluse where once sage Vasistha meditated. The ambience is still untarnished and perfect for soul-searching.

Valley of Flowers (16 kms away from Govindghat): There are places on earth you would have never believed to exist, until you see them. Valley of flowers, with its amazing floral diaspora of a zillion species and the rainbowed spectacle it presents, is one such place. A camera is a must-carry to this piece of little paradise up in the Himalayas.

Dehradun (43 kms): The tourist attractions of Dehradun are Tapkeshwar Temple, Sahastradhara, Dakpathar, Laxman Sidh, Asan Barrage and if you still aren’t amused, go there to have a look at what is called a Himalayan Beauty and for flights (it has an airport) to various destinations.

Location :
In the Garhwal Himalayas, Uttaranchal, North India

Go there for :
Yoga & Meditation Courses, Rafting, Treks

Altitude:
1,160 ft.

Climate :
41º-36.6ºC (Sum); 32.2º-18.3ºC (Win)

When to Go:
April to October

Local Tongue:
Hindi, Garhwali

Literacy :
65%

STD Code :
+91 - 135

LEH LADAKH HILL STATION - NORTH INDIA

Ladakh - a slice of Tibet

Across the Kashmir Valley and over the famous Zoji La pass lies Ladakh the Himalayan kingdom of Ladakh, nestled between the world's highest mountain ranges - the Karakoram in the north-west, the Himalayas in the south-west and the Trans-Himalayas at its core. The Indus is the life-saving water-way that veins this high-altitude desert with a blazing sun and freezing wind. Leh, at an elevation of 3505 m, is the main city, and hence the appellation 'Leh-Ladakh'. The very road route to Ladakh is an adventure escapade.

Leaving the geographic brouhaha apart, Ladakh is about robed monks flocking about the undulating streets, brightly painted monasteries, hand-made wall-hangings in colorful woolen threads, and the aroma from the gurgling vessels of gurgur cha filling the air. And as adventurers reach sequestered Leh from their arduous expedition, a warmth seeps into their being inspite of the freezing weather. This is the magic of 'Little Tibet'!

Attractions

Leh Palace: The once nine storied 17th century Leh Palace, now in dilapidated state, rises from the edge of a hill and commands a breath-taking view of the entire locale. Above the palace, at the top of the Namgyal hill, is the Victory Tower, built to commemorate Ladakh's victory over the Balti Kashmir armies in the early 16th century.

Monastries

Monastries (gompas): These are the repositories of Buddhist religion and home to some thousands of monks. The 13th century Namgyal Tsemo Gompa (also called the Leh Gompa), with its paintings and a three-storey high seated Buddha image is beautiful, add to it the classic sweep of the entire valley that can be had once you are there. The residence of the head of the Gelukpa (yellow hat) order is the 17th century Sankar Gompa. The paintings in the main prayer hall are worth a dekko. To the west of Changspa, lies the large white stupa (commemorative cairn), Shanti Stupa, inaugurated by the Dalai Lama in the 1980s. This monument was conceived as part of a Japanese-inspired peace movement to spread Buddhism throughout the world. Needless to say, Ladakh is a revered name in the Buddhist world with a constant pilgrim bee-line, especially during festivals.

Hemis National Park: Situated 40 km SE of Leh on the bank of river Indus is the home to an exotic assemblage of cold desert fauna like the snow leopard, Tibetan wild or kiang, ibex, serow and Tibetan antelope.

Festivals: The gompa courtyards burst into a thousand hues during festivities. The biggest and most famous of the monastic festivals is that of Hemis monastery (Jun-July) dedicated to Padmasambhava (Guru Rimpoche), the founder of Tibetan Buddhism, when the resident Lamas perform ritualistic masked dances. Every 12 years, a magnificent embroidered silk thangka (tantric wall hanging) is displayed to the public; the next such unveiling takes place in June 2016, when the Year of the Monkey comes around again.
Adventure escapades: River rafting in the Indus and Zanskar rivers, mountaineering in the Great Himalayan Range, the Zanskar Mountains and the Karakoram Range are the raging favorites. The best trekking tracks are the 3 week trek from Indus Valley to Darcha (Lahoul), 10-day Markha Valley trek, the 11-day Lamayuru- Padum traverse, Hemis-Markha-Padum trek and the 4/5-day Stok-Khangri trek.

Shopping

Leh has superior quality woolen garments, hand-woven carpets with dragon motifs, rugs, wall-hangings and Pashmina shawls - the popular hunts in Ladakh. Tibetan handicrafts like prayer wheels, Buddhist masks and Thangka paintings. Traditional Ladakhi jewelry with turquoise carvings and Tibetan silver jewelry are sheer delight for connoisseurs. Packets of Ladakhi apricots make scrumptious souvenirs to gift away back home. Bargaining is not an alien concept, but at the govt. Emporiums the prices are fixed and considering the quality, one shouldn't really mind.

And the major locales are Tibetan Handicraft Emporium and Ladakh Art Palace on the Main Bazaar Rd., Cottage Industries Exposition and Women's Alliance in Changspa.

Cuisine

The tables here emanate the unmistakably refreshening aroma of boiled vegetables. Tibetan food mainly consists of Momos (dumplings stuffed with meat or vegetables) with fiery chilli sauce, Thukpas (a thick noodle soup with vegetables), Tsumpa (roasted barley flour, Ngampe in Ladakhi), Skyu (a heavy pasta dish with root vegetables), fresh breads with apricot jam and strong black tea flavored with butter and salt (gurgur cha). And if you have a taste for continental diet, you will love this version of boiled cuisine. The alcoholic beverage, Chang, made of fermented barley is considered heavenly, the succor to the taste buds and warmth to the body being the divine connection.

For traditional Tibetan food go to Himalaya Café, Shangri La for Korean cuisine, Budshah Inn for Chinese and Kashmiri cuisine, Dreamland Restaurant for Tibetan, Kashmiri, Indian and Italian food, Penguin Bar and Restaurant for fresh breads, Mentokling Restaurant for pizzas cooked over a traditional wood-fired oven and Pumpernickel German Bakery for lasagna and mini-meals.

Getaways
Nubra Valley: A 5-hour jeep drive over the world's highest motorable pass, Khardung-La (5,578m/18,000 ft.), leads to northern Ladakh's lush Nubra Valley, a fertile region with gompas, hot sulphur springs (at Panamik), and double-humped Bactrian camels. This route was a part of the legendary Silk Route used by caravans of traders operating between the Punjab and various regions within central Asia for many centuries. Rent a bike or hire a jeep and discover the off-the-beaten-track purlieus there. The Bactrian camel safari at the sand dunes in the Nubra valley is a must-dare!

Stok Palace: About 17 km from Leh, across from Choglamsar on the opposite side of the Indus is home to the 74th generation of the Namgyal dynasty - the Stock Palace (Open daily, May-Oct, 8am-7pm). The museum has an interesting collection of thangka, weapons, jewels and the queen's perak (a turquoise-studded headdress).

Monastery Circuit: All the monasteries fall on two routes and can be covered in two days. One is the route to Shey, Thikse, Stakna, Matio, Chembray, Tak Tok and Hemis. The other route leads out from the airport road and includes Spituk, Phyang, Likir, Alchi, Ridzong and Lamayuru. Inclusion of Lamayuru (125 km from Leh), in your itinerary makes it impossible to return to Leh the same day.

North of Leh, along the road to Srinigar are Phyang Gompa (16km from Leh), and 15th-century Spituk Gompa (8km from Leh), roosted on a rocky hill. Alchi (70km NW of Leh), along the left bank of the Indus, a short way off the Srinigar-Leh Rd. has is of the pilgrim hot-hubs with monasteries as old as 11th century.

The once majestic Shey Palace and Monastery (Open daily,May-Oct, 8am-7pm) is 15 km from Leh. The Thikse Gompa (Open daily,6am-6pm), 25km south of Leh, with its 12-story edifice all perched on a hilltop is an imposing spectacle.

Approaching the Tibet border, about 45 km from Leh is the Hemis Gompa, the wealthiest Ladakhi monastery. It bursts into a riot of colors during the Hemis Tsechu festival every summers in June and July.

Zanskar: A stark contrast to Ladakh's verdant valleys is Zanskar's treeless expanse - a trekker's delight. River rafting is possible from Serchu to Nyimu via Padam. Monasteries around Zanskar are Karsha (9 km), Stongde (20 km), Burdan (10 km), Zongkhu (20 km) and Phuktal (70 km).

The Drokpa Circuit: Banking the Indus near Khaltse, is the Drokhpa community of Aryan origin. Ethnically, linguistically, religion-culturally at variance from the rest of Ladakh and those in the surrounding villages, and this is what makes this locale worth a dekko.

Location :
Jammu & Kashmir, North India

Go there for :
Adventure sports, Buddhist Monasteries

Climate :
11°-26°C (Sum); Upto -30°C (Win)

When to Go:
Jun-Oct

Local Tongue:
Ladakhi, Urdu

Literacy:
24 %

STD Code :
+91 - 1982

PATNITOP HILL STATION - NORTH INDIA

For new-weds

If solitude and altitude are your favorites, than label Patnitop, near the Jammu-Srinagar highway, as your next summer destination. Nature must have taken Her own sweet time to plot this dream retreat on a plateau 2024 m high, towering above the Chenab Gorge and looking up at Pir Panjal range. Trekking in the tall pine groves and fine skiing slopes make Patnitop an adventurers infatuation. Patnitop Tourism Authority has chalked a Tourist circuit that encompasses Jammu-Katra-VaishnoDeviji, Kud-Sanasar, Patnitop-Gourikund, Sudmahadev, Mantali, extending up to Latti-Dhuna.

Attractions

Adventure Sports : Come winters and the snow-fall at Patnitop beckons adventurers and honeymooners. January and February, is when skiing camps are thrown up here and there, banking on beginners and the exciting slope at Madhatop (5/6 km from Patnitop on Sanasar Road). Summers are best for trekking this 5 km hill-station. You can also hire ponies or drive about hunting for secluded picnic spots. An interesting one-day trek can be the one to Shiva Garh, about 11-km from Patnitop at an altitude of almost 3,500 meters. Trekking equipments can be hired from the tourism Dept. shops at Jammu and Kud. A newly introduced craze is Paragliding, popular in Sanasar and Jammu. Parasailing and Hotair ballooning are also coming up. Golf lovers can head for the 9-hole golf course at Sanasar.

Some must-visit spots : Chinar Garden, Picnic Spot, Skating Garden, the 6th century Nag Temple at Ishandhari, Sudh Mahadev ka Pahad (that has a holy trishul), the apple orchards and lemon and orange groves at Mantalai (where Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati married) and the rest is for you to explore. The saffron fields, waterfalls and the high-altitude National Park of Kishtwar are other feast for the vision. Also consider visiting the 19th century Mubarak Mandi Palace with its Rajasthani, Mughal and Baroque European architecture and its delightful Sheesh Mahal.

Shopping

Patnitop might be quite a disappointment for shopaholics. Never mind, a few options still exist and that is better than none. From here you can pick some of the Kashmiri handicraft items and traditional specialties like namdas (embroidered wool carpets), pherans (embroidered long shirts) and woolens.
Cuisine

Other than the roadside dhabas (eatery), you will not really find free-standing restaurants at Patnitop. Diners are thus left with the only option of trying the various delicacies offered in their own Hotel dining lounges. At Vardaan Resorts, guest are feasted sumptuous buffet in the restaurant amidst a tranquil environ. The extensive a la carte menu offers tempting array of Indian and Chinese cuisine. Asia - The Oasis Resort’s multi cuisine dishes and authentic Kashmiri delights are famed.

Getaways

Sanasar (19 km): Carpeted green and laced with fir trees, Sanasar is a cone-shaped meadow, popular as ‘mini Gulmarg’ and excellent for adventure sports of a varied kind.

Jammu (112 km): Pilgrims will know why Jammu is a must-getaway after or before Patnitop. Famous as the ‘City of Temples’, Bahu Mata is the presiding deity of Jammu and the Dargah of Peer Budhan Ali Shah is the other shrine held sacred by Jammuites.

Vaishno Devi (80 km): The holy cave shrine of Vaishno Devi is located 61 km north of Jammu at a height of 5,200 ft in the Trikuta Mountains of the lower Himalayas. Pilgrimage treks up the hill from the base at Katra is raging popular for believers from across the globe.

Akhnoor (32 km west of Jammu): Famed for the legendary love-story of Sohni Mahiwal (in the lines of Romeo & Juliet), this historic town on the banks of the river Chenab still preserves ruins of the 2500 BC Indus valley civilization.

Location :
At 6640 ft, 112 km ahead of Jammu

Go there for :
Honeymooning, Skiing

Climate :
40°-5° C (Average)

When to Go:
All seasons beckon equally

Local Tongue:
Dogri, Hindi, Urdu, Kashmiri

STD Code :
+91 - 1992

DELHI - NORTH INDIA

Delhi-India's potpourri

No other place qualifies so completely to deserve the sobriquet of 'The Capital City' as Delhi does! Delhi is made of everything that is India and vice-versa. The sixth most populous metropolis in the world (15.3 million/2005 census), Delhi is the melting pot of all Indian States and it remains a commendable absorbent even for those beyond the compass of the nation. The climate, however, may not be that inviting during the summers, but you have a choice of the milder seasons. The contrast of antiquity and modernization this land exudes is both curious and awesome.

The Tale of the city

Delhi is as old as 5000 BC. Staggering, isn't it? The earliest reference of Delhi was found in the Indian epic Mahabharata where it was the site of the Pandava capital Indraprashtha. A trail of dynasties 'came, saw, conquered' and left their imprints, viz. - Mauyras, Guptas, Rajputs, Afghans, Khiljis, Tughluq, Sayyids, Lodhis and lastly the Mughals to be finally overthrown by the British. It was, however, the Mughals who ruled India for over three centuries, that Delhi dazzles as an architect's archipelago. Over 60,000 historical remains echoing different ages of the past make Delhi a historians apple-pie.

Attractions

Old Delhi : The Mughals and Indian heritage seem to entwined that it would be nearing blasphemy to refer to them as mere conquerors. Old Delhi, an erstwhile walled city, Shahjahanabad, of Mughal Emperor Shah Jehan, actually seems like a piece of history sliced out and preserved, while the rest of the world marched ahead. The royal palace at the Red-Fort or the Lal Quila, named after its red-sandstone facade, the Jama Masjid (world's largest mosque) and the congested sprawl of Chandni Chowk, where the royalty once shopped about, the railway station with red-turban coolies flocking about - make Old Delhi (Purani Dilli) what it is. A befitting location indeed for the Indian Prime Ministers to pulsate the very air with his Independence Day speech from the premises of the Red Fort.

Purana Quila : The river Yamuna meanders along this vintage mile-long fort partly built by Mughal Emperor Humayun and by Sher Shah Suri. The notable buildings sheltered within are the Sher Mandal (Humayun's library) and the 16th century Quila-I-kholina Mosque (a landmark in Indo Islamic architecture).

The Qutub Minar : Its 72.5 meters (237.8 ft) makes it the tallest brick minaret in the world. Delhi's first Muslim ruler Qutb-ud-din Aibak wanted a replicate of Afghanistan's Minaret of Jam or even better. The walls have intricate carvings of verses from Quran.

India Gate : It is majestic 42 meters high arched gateway look-a-alike built as a memorial to the Indian soldiers killed in the World War I. India Gate, today has become synonymous with weekend family picnic-spot.

Akshardham Temple: Flanking the banks of river Yamuna, is this 2 billion architectural grandeur - an initiative of the Bochasanvasi Aksharpurushottam Swaminarayan Sanstha (BAPS). A fine blend of faith and technology, Akshardham temple complex is replete with a majestic 11 ft statue of Lord Swaminarayan, 20000 other statues, an IMAX theater, artificial lakes and an elaborate musical fountain.

Lotus temple :A piquant lotus-shaped insignia of the Bahai faith, its quietude is a stark contrast to the bustling purlieu of Kalkaji where it stands. The Lotus temple is the meditative refuge that draws people from across the globe irrespective of creed and community

Birla Mandir: Embellished with statues, shrines, waterfalls, gardens and an ambiance so peaceful in spite of the tourists that throng the place. Janmasthami (Lord Krishna's birthday) is when you should tune your trip if you want to partake in its festive uproar.

Rashtrapati Bhavan : Where Indian President lives! The erstwhile residence of the Viceroy of India during the British Raj and designed by British architect Edwin Lutyens (who also laid the design for New Delhi), the Parliament House is larger than the Palace of Versailles. The plush Mughal Gardens, a Lutyenian replica of its counterpart in Kashmir, appositely adorn the House with its fantastic fountains, paved pathways, ornamental plants and of course a metropolis of most fantastic flowers.

The Art Galleries and Museums : Come and witness the India filtered through some of the more sensitive Indians. The India International Center (Max Muller Marg), Delhi Art Gallery (Hauz Khas Village), National Gallery of Modern Art (near India Gate) are the best picks amongst others. The Crafts Museum (Indian crafts, wooden Carvings, metal ware, paintings), Doll Museum (one of the largest collection of costume dolls from all over the world), National Rail Museum (tracks the genesis of Indian Railway), National Museum (pre-historic archeology, jewelery, paintings, manuscripts, Central Asian antiquities, arms and armor) - mouth watering historians

Shopping

The markets here are a melting-pot of everything found just anywhere in India. A grand spread neighboring the Old Delhi Railway Station, Chandni Chowk's crowded lanes, famous sweet shops of yore, the tourists visiting Jama Masjid and Lal Quila (Red Fort) - give it that 'just Dilli' air. Go there, but with some Indian friend or a guide, and shop just anything Indian in very reasonable rates.

In central Delhi, Connaught Place (tall pillared corridors and branded show-rooms) and Janpath (antique Indian souvenirs) are the must-go's. Also check out the different state's Government emporiums here for indigenous buys.

Other popular shopping arcades are Karol Bagh Market (in West Delhi,one of the largest in Asia), Kamla Nagar Market (North Campus), South Extension (close to the Embassies), Central Market (Lajpat Nagar), GK II M-block Market, Sarojini Nagar Market (the cheapest in Delhi) and Dilli Haat (a confluence of wares from all Indian States). Some very Indian brand-chains you should check out are - Fabindia, Anokhi, Kurta Palace, Nalli, Tantra, People Tree and so on.

Cuisines

Punjabbi khana (food from Punjab), tandoori chicken (roasted chicken), lassi (yogurt shake), chaat (savory snacks) of a hundred kinds, kulfi faluda (ice-cream cousin), kebabs (grilled meat) and biryani (a rich dish) - Dilli is synonymous with these for a well-versed gourmet.

For the best Mughal cuisines (kebabs, biryani, korma) go to Karims at Old Delhi and Nizamuddin where recipes date back to the days of the royalty or the Great Kaban Factory (Radisson). Hunt for Punjabi delights at Punjabi by Nature and Khaja Chowk (both at PVR Priya Complex), Bukhara (Maurya Sheraton), Delhi Ka Aangan (Hyatt Regency), Darbar (Ashoka Hotel) and Corbetts (Claridges). And Dilli Haat is the place where you can taste a flavor each of all Indian States.

Speciality hubs are a blessing and the noted ones are - EI Arab (at Regal Building); Dum Pukht (Maurya Sheraton); Kashmiri food at Chor Bizarre (Hotel Broadway); Thai food at Baan Thai (The Oberoi) and Sukothai (Hauz Khas Village); Japenese food at Tokyo (Ashoka Hotel) and Osaka (Hauz Khas Village); Chinese at I-Ching (Radisson), Tibetan food at eateries near Chanakya Theater; South Indian at the Sagar Ratna joints and Coconut Grove (Ashok Yatri Niwas); and Mexican food at Rodeo (Connaught Place).

Weekend Gateways

Delhi is veritably positioned and it initiates the Tourism industry highest-traffic zone, the Golden Triangle, i.e. Delhi - Jaipur - Agra.

Forts: Prithviraj Chauhan III's 15th century Neemrana Fort Palace is about 133 km SW of Delhi (just off the Jaipur highway). It is a resort now and a classic energizer for the city-sick metropolis. The 14th century Kesroli Fort is 155 km south of Delhi and situated atop the rare, dark Hornstone Breccia Rocks with ramparts 200 ft high, from where the eyes can sweep the entire locale. From Kesroli you can head for the neighboring palaces, museums and sanctuaries at Alwar, Sariska and Siliserh.

Surajkund (Haryana): Situated on the Delhi-Faridabad highway (opposite Tughlaqabad Fort), this sequestered hamlet nestled amongst the rocky outcrops of the Aravalli hills, is famed for its annual Crafts Mela (fair) held 1st to 15th February every year. The ancient tank, the amphitheater, the Surya Temple, the folk theatre and rustic performances during the fair, are tourist interests here.

Sultanpur (Gurgaon, Haryana): Located 46 km from Delhi, is this petite bird sanctuary. A former Salim Ali (famous Indian Ornithologist) haunt, the jheel (shallow lake) serpenting Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary takes on a multi-colored hue with migratory avian guests every November-December. Some exciting staying options are the Banjara Camps (with bonfires, adventure sports, jungle strolls), and farm-houses like the Kalki Mystic (with poultry farms, open fields, stress management programs), Golden Creeper (outdoor games - volleyball, hurdles race, horse, bullock cart, camel rides, treasure hunts), Great Escape (terracotta-red contrasted with lush rose lawns, poultry and a stud farm, carts, camels, horses to ride, puppet shows) and so on.

Kurukshetra (Haryana): The site for the Hindu mythological war of with the 'Kurukshetra Lake' is only 3 ½ hr drive away from Delhi.

Location :
North India

Go there for :
India in a capsule

Climate :
25°-44°C (Sum); 2°-16°C (Win/Dec-Jan)

When to Go:
Oct-Mar

Local Tongue:
Hindi

Literacy :
81.67%

STD Code :
011

DALHOUSIE HILL STATION - NORTH INDIA

A walk in Eden

Carpeted on the crest of five hills on the western edge of the Dhauladhar Range is gift from the once Governor General Lord Dalhousie to the State of Himachal Pradesh. And what a gift at 6678 ft! Unlike the Shimlas and Darjeelings, Dalhousie still maintains to give her visitors that cloistered and cut-off-from-the-world impression, for that complete weekend rejuvenation. Very British in look and feel, Dalhousie is as small as your legs can encompass and as vast as your eyes can sweep. Trek the forests, pray in its churches, dance under its waterfalls, discover little villages, snooze under the blue sky, write a poem or propose marriage to your beloved, this piece of Eden is just perfect to unwind the bohemian in all of us. The greatest activity in Dalhousie is on and around the three level Malls which were laid in the early 1860s for promenades, carriages, horses, dandies, etc. these roads and the steeper by-lanes which connect them to the bus-stand are still the arteries of the town.

Attractions

Walk as far as legs can take : The five quaint towns, etched at an elevation of 5,000 feet to 7,800 feet, are as interesting as their tongue twisting names (Kathloang, Tehra, Bakrota, Potreyn and Balun). The five stately churches (the main being Catholic Church Of St. Francis at Mall road end), the Thandi and Garam sadaks (roads), the Mall road, Gandhi Chowks and Subhash Chowks are best explored on foot.

Woodlands beckon : Drive or trek up the winding 10-km, cedar forested route to the hilltop Kala-Tope from where you can have that hallucinating view of Pir Panjal mountains. On the way, set amidst thick forest is the small temple of Bhulwani Mata, in the village of Ahla. A fair is celebrated in July to venerate the goddess.

Little Tibet : Just 3 km off Gandhi Chowk is Himachal’s oldest Tibetan settlement, mostly visited for its handicrafts center from where you can pick varied Tibetan bric-a-brac as souvenirs.

Jandhri Ghat : Nearby Subhash Baoli is the elegant Chamba palace fringed by tall pine trees, with tiny streamlets gushing by. Go there if you have a whole day to spend picnicking.

Satdhara : As you head to Panjpulla, at an altitude of 2,036m. (6,678 ft), the sound of gurgling streams amidst that beatific locale will freeze you on your tracks. The waters of the seven tiny streams here is lored to have great therapeutic value. And you are done early, you can try the 2.5 km trek by the stream to Alah Water Reservoir on Bakrota Hill and then walk back to town.

Chamera Dam : At Banikhet is the once British race-course and some 8-km away is the Chamera Dam, locally nicknamed Bhadrakali Lake, with its rock-littered slope called Devi Dehra. Picnic here and head for Chamba.

Dainkund (at 2745m): About 10 km from the town, this tall peak affords a sweeping view of the hills, valleys and the river Beas, Ravi and the Chenab threading their silvery way down to the plains.

Shopping

Dalhousie shopping will consist of Tibetan curios, unless you explore and discover something totally out-of-place and unique. The town has so many undiscovered corners that chances are your hunt will be successful. For Buddhist paintings, woolens, trinkets, variety of copper and silver diyas, try the Tibetan Market at Gandhi Chowk. The Himachal Handloom Crafts Center on Potreyn Road has wonderful Chamba and Kullu shawls. For antiques, look for DC Khanna store on the Potreyn Loop. Tibetan Handicraft Center has excellent carpets that can be bought at reasonable rates.

Cuisine

For elaborate meals, your Hotel restaurants are the best bet. For quick bites, you can try the roadside dhabas that you will find in plenty at Dalhousie, especially about Gandhi Chowk or the Bus Stand. Amritsari, Sharma’s Dhaba, Sher-e-Punjab and the Royal Dhaba (on Court Road) are definitely worth checking out. Restaurant Preet Palace on Subhash Chowk offers Mughlai, Kashmiri and Chinese cuisine at reasonable prices. Moti Mahal, New Metro and Lovely are some of the other restaurants you could try. Kwality Restaurant on Gandhi Chowk is very popular too while Snow Lion near the bus stand does good Tibetan food.
Snippets

Though seemingly tucked away from the tourist humdrum, Dalhousie has been an old-time tourist favorite. Some of the distinguished personalities like Ravinder Nath Tagore, Subhash chander Bose and Pt. Jawahar Lal Nehru visited Dalhousie in their formative period to immerse themselves in the leisurely quiet of this hill station and came back rejuvenated.

Pt. Jawaharlal Nehru (former Indian PM) on Dalhousie: “One of the finest hill station...It is not flashy...and there are few amusements… for my part, I would rather go to Dalhousie than almost any hill station in India, Kashmir apart…”.

As Shimla finds its focus in the mall, in Dalhousie action gravitates in the evening to the G.P.O. which presents a riot of colors and activity.

Getaways

Khajjiar (27 km): At 6,430 ft is this once saucer-shaped British golf-course, whose golden-domed temple dedicated to Khajinag, attracts neighboring believers. Go there for horse-rides, day-treks to Dharamshala, and overnight at the HPTDC cottages.

Location :
In Himachal Pradesh, between Dhauladhar & Pirpanjal range

Go there for :
Languid strolls, Nature at its best

Altitude :
6678 ft

Climate :
Upto 30°C (Sum); upto 0°C (Win)

When to Go:
Best all round the year

Literacy:
81%

STD Code :
+91 - 1899

NAINITAL - NORTH INDIA

Nainital - enigma for vision

At an elevation of 6,350 ft (1938 m), Nainital is one of the loveliest of Kumaoni hill stations in the North Indian state of Uttaranchal. Way back in 1841, it so seduced the Briton, Mr. Baron that he construed a house called the Pilgrim's Cottage and gradually beckoned the world to behold at his quintessential new discovery and the rest is history. This erstwhile summer retreat of the colonial kingpins is now ranked amongst the best of vacationing destinations in India. This 'lake district' was once home to wildlife conservationist and man-eating-tiger hunter Jim Corbett, whose escapades and travelogues are still reiterated with pride. The Corbett National Park and the legion of lakes - Bhim Tal, Sat Tal, Naukuchia Tal and, of course, Naini - are Nainital's jeweled attractions.

Attractions

Naini Lake: Nainital was once brindled with about 60 lakes and was called 'Chakta'. A legend goes that after Sati committed suicide, her dazed husband Lord Shiva went about carrying her body and her eye happened to fall near a lake. The spot is commemorated with the Naina (means 'eye') Devi temple, and needless to say, the lake is the pristine Naini lake whose waters are still considered holy.

Naina Peak (or Cheena peak): At 8566 ft (2611m), Nainital's highest peak stands overlooking the beautiful eye-shaped Naini lake. The young and energetic can hike up the 6 km from the north-end of the town (Mallital) and for those who dare not, ponies can be hired in Mallital or on Snow View. But miss-it you should not!

Land's End: About 4 km away from the town center and perched at 9,452 ft. (2881 m) on the southern border of the lake, this hill affords a quintessential view of another lake, Khurpa Tal and of course of the entire Nainital.

Astronomical Observatory: The telescopes and binoculars set up near Hanuman Garh for those jaw-slacking views of the valley.

Snow View: The best and the most adventurous way to head for this curio at a supreme 7447 ft. (2,270 m) is to take the motorable cable-car from Mallital. It is the perfect vantage point for those breath-taking views. Some believe Muse sits there, for after the trip one is full of poetry and elated diction.

Adventure trails: Horse riding at the Mall and to reach roof-top joints like the Snow View Point, Tiffin top, Kilburi from the Mallital area. Boating cruises on the Naini Lake, treks in the verdant hill and the aforesaid cable-car ropeway offers some lip-smacking options perfect for sunny afternoons. Equipments for mountaineering and trekking can be hired from the Nainital Mountaineering Club and Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam. For angling and fishing, permits needs to arranged from different Govt. Centers. One can also hire yacht from the Yacht Club at Mallital.

Festivals: Come September and the quiet town throbs with tourists and pilgrims coming to attend the Nanda Devi Fair and watch the various cultural shows. Vasantotsav, held during Jan-Feb at Ramnagar - the Gateway to Jim Corbett National Park, for obvious reasons, attracts more tourists and cultural fiesta from the Garhwal and the Kumaon hills is showcased.

Shopping

The main shopping promenade is the Mall, which, along with Mallital, is good for wooden stuff and decorative candles. Also check out the Tallital bazaars and the Tibetan market for woolens, cane items and local handicrafts. The best one to head if you have a knack for collecting endemic products, is the Hill Top Tourist Point or Kasta Kala Kendra Collection.

Cuisine

Nainital doesn't have an authentic cuisine, but offers a wide-ranging variety of Indian and continental food. Most restaurants are located on either of the Malls, typically visited by tourists. Marino, at Tallital, is known for its vegetarian thalis, Embassy (Mallital), serves safe and trusty Mughlai food and Sakley's (Mallital) is known for its sumptuous continental dishes.

Getaways

Corbett National Park (63 km SW): Established in 1936 by Jim Corbett, among others, this national park is Himalayan India's last expanse of wilderness. For wildlife enthusiasts, the place to stay is Dhikala, the KMVN accommodation. From here you can head into the forest on an elephant or jeep safari. The park is closed from mid-June to mid-November.

Sattal (23 km): Literally meaning seven lakes, is a group of small lakes nested together, at an altitude of 1370 m. A spot less explored, this is where you must head for the solitude you so much need to cherish the bounty of nature.

Ramgarh (26 km): Located 26 km from Nainital, Ramgarh is surrounded by fruit orchards, especially apples.

Mukhteshwar (52 km NE): At 2286 m or 7,500 ft, it provides some eye-warming view of the Himalayas, especially of Trisul and Nanda Devi peaks. There is an All India Research Center for Animal Treatment here. For those interested in history, you must visit the PWD guest house at the end of the ridge where Jim Corbett once lodged when he came to shoot the man-eater of Mukhteshwar.

Bhimtal (22km): This lake, which is larger than Naini Lake, at an altitude of 1370 m has an island with a popular restaurant on it. There is also a 17th century temple complex, the Bhimeshwar, alongside a 40 ft high dam at one end of the lake. Tourist buses for Bhimtal leave Nainital at regular intervals.

Ranikhet (60 km): A sheer beauty at 1829 ft., its beautiful pine trees, orchards, the temples, create a feeling of nostalgia and followed by an heart-ache when you turn to leave.

Location :
In Kumaon hills, Uttaranchal

Go there for :
Lakes, Corbett National Park

Climate :
11°-27°C (Sum); 2°-16°C (Win)

When to Go:
Mar-Jun, mid-Sep to October

Local Tongue:
Kumaoni, Garhwali, Hindi

STD Code :
+91 - 5942

ALMORA HILL STATIONS

Bells in the Mist

Once called Rajpur (the Land of the Kings), Almora is nestled over a horse saddle shaped ridge of the Uttranchal mountains. Unlike, the once summer-retreats of our erstwhile British colonizers, Almora is down-to-the-core Indian hill beauty, which has very covetedly preserved her cultural past amidst the tourist and pilgrim hum-drum. The temple of Goddess Nanda Devi located right in the center of the town, the Durga temples at Doonagiri, Harikhan Temple (4 km from Ranikhet), Chitai Temple (6 km from Almora) lend Almora its religious edge and make it the cultural heartland of Kumaon. Quaint hill resorts such as Chaukori, Ranikhet, Sitlakhet, Binsar, Kausani and Bageshwar further add to vacationers love for Almora. The eastern portion of the ridge is known as Talifat and the western one is known as Selifat. The market is at the top of the ridge where these two, Talifat and Selifat jointly terminate. For the celestial mountain sunsets head some 2 km further to Bright End Corner.

Attractions

The Mall : If you are thinking Is there the Mall in every Indian hill station,well, coincidently, there’s one in most of them and this undoubtedly is the main promenade where the pedestrian traffic squat about the shops. That is to say, the Mall is where to hub is. Overlooking the Mall is the Nanda Devi shrine built in typical Kumaoni style of stone temple architecture. The Nanda Devi festival in the month of August has the whole area resonating with cultural performances at the temple.

Govind Vallabh Pant Public Museum : Houses archaeological finds from the Katyur and Chand periods, a collection of apen or folk paintings and other remains of Kumaoni art, culture and history. (Open: 10:30 am till 04:30 pm. on all days except Monday).

Deer Park : Some 3 km from Almora is this interesting reserve that houses many deer species, leopards and the Himalayan black bear amidst tall pine groves. Another quick getaway in the forested hills is Simtola, about 3 km from Almora.

No one can trek just once : Almora is a trekker’s haven. Some of the most popular trekking routes with base camp at Almora are Almora (1638 m)--Shitalakhet (1828 m)--Ranikhet (1829 m), Almora--Pandhar--Jalna--Lamgarha--Saharphatak--Mornaula, Almora--Qarab--Mukteshat, Almora--Barechhina-Pannwanaula--Artola--Jageshwar, Almora (1638 m)--Kappharkhan--Biasar ( 2412 m). And with Kausani (Mahatma Gandhiji's staging point in 1929) as base, you can trek these routes: Kausani - Garur - Baijnath - Bageshwar, Kausani - Garur - Baijnath - Gwaldham, Kausani - Chhota Pinath - Bara Pinath.

Almorian memories : Right from the saint Swami Vivekananda, Nobel Prize winning poet and freedom fighter Gurudev Rabindranath Tagore, First Indian PM Jawahar Lal Nehru, great dancer Udaya Shankar, musician Ravi Shankar, Bollywood actor of yore Guru Dutt - all have found their share of paradise and replenishment in the pine forests and serene breeze of Almora.

Shopping

Almora is definitely not a shopper’s paradise but its local handicraft items are unique and must-buys if you are holidaying there. The Woollens at Showroom Mall Road and Copper Works at Tamta Mohalla are the most famous Almora handicraft buys. The Almora women are excellent weavers and most of the woolens in the neighboring Nainital shopping hubs are exported from here. A special breed of Rabbit, Angora, produces this wool which is extremely soft, fine and very warm. The Garud Woollens of the Kumaon Schedule Tribe Development Corporation at Shikhar Hotel compound also has good priced woolens. For Bronze and Brass wares and decorative items you can hunt about in shops at Lal Bazaar and Chowk Bazaar.

Cuisine

Woolens apart, Almora’s other pride of place are sweets, especially the Singora and Bal Mithaiare. Glory Restaurant (The Mall, across the Madras Cafe) is a very good vegetarian place with Indian and Continental food. Mount View Restaurant, in the Hotel Shikhar, Swagar Restaurant (next to the Hotel Shikar), Soni Dhaba (at The Mall bus stand) are names gourmets should mug-up.

Snippets

Appetizing Quotes on Almora :
“In these hills, nature’s hospitality eclipses all men can ever do. The enchanting beauties of the Himalayas, their bracing climate and the soothing green that envelopes you leaves nothing more to be desired. I wonder whether the scenery of these hills and the climate are to be surpassed, if equaled, by any of the beauty spots of the world. After having been nearly three weeks in Almora Hills, I am more than ever amazed why our people need go in Europe in search of health.” -- Mahatama M.K. Gandhi

“These mountains are associated with the best memories of our race: Here, therefore, must be one of centers, not merely of activity, but more of calmness of meditation, and of peace and I hope some one to realize it.” -- Swami Vivekananda

Hollywood connection : The popular Hollywood star, Uma Thurman (of Kill Bill fame) spent considerable period of her childhood at Almora and being devout Buddhists, the Dalai Lama used to be one of their notable guests.

Getaways

Kasauni (51 km): The Katyur Valley, the picturesque hills, Mahatma Gandhi’s Anakshakti Ashram and the innumerable treks make Kasauni more than a part of the Almora vacationers itinerary. Pinnath (10 km), Bura Pinnath (5 km) and Bhakot are the highest points near Kausani.

Binsar Hills (30 km): Binsar hill, locally known as Jhandi Dhar, rises to a height of 2,412 m and plays a host to some of the most enchanting wildlife like the Panther and Barking Deer in its little wildlife sanctuary. A temple legend there threatens - should anyone take away anything belonging to the God or his worshippers and avenging spirit and compels him conscience stricken to restore it twenty fold.

Bageshwer (90 km): Situated at the confluence of the rivers Saryu and Gomti, every January Bageshwar hosts the famous Uttaraini fair. Visit its temples or explore the glaciers of Sunderdunga, Kafni and Pindari near Bageshwar.

Ranikhet (50 km): Ask an Indian army man and he will tell you, with pride, the lores of Ranikhet. Officially, this is where the prestigious Kumaun Regiment of Indian Army has its center. The Kumaun Regimental museum and amicably maintained green golf course are sites of interest for vacationers. From here, some 4 km away is Chaubatiya gardens famous for their sprawling orchards of delicious apples, plums, peaches and apricots. In and around Ranikhet there are some famous temples of the Hindus for religious minded like Jhoola Devi Mandir, Ram Mandir, Herakhan Mandir, Kalika Temple and Binsar Mahadeva.

Katarmal (17 km): Famous for the 800 years temple dedicated to the Sun God. The only other temple in India dedicated to Sun is the Konark temple in Puri at Orissa.

Patal Bhubneshwer(110 km): As you travel from Almora towards Gangolihat, in Pithoragarh district the underground cave of Patal Bhubneshwer beckons with its 40 m vertical tunnel shaped path. After reaching at the bottom, the main passage opens into several small horizontal caves, out of which the longest accessible cave is 120 meters horizontal in length. What interests the vision most is the mysterious natural carving of many animals, Gods and Goddesses inside the cave.

Location :
71 km North of Nainital, Uttaranchal

Go there for :
Treks, Temples, Woolens

Altitude :
1646 meters (5400feet)

Climate :
25-29°C (Sum); 8-14°C (Win)

When to Go:
April - June; September - November

Local Tongue:
Hindi, English & Kumaoni

STD Code :
+91 - 5962

UDAIPUR - NORTH INDIA

Udaipur - of antique palaces

Yet another palatial city of Rajasthan, but like each one of them, this one too is painted in its own unique hue. The lakes are what gives Udaipur its claim to fame, other then the sprawling Forts and Palaces. And overnighting at an ex-palace and waking up to the chirping of some hundreds of migratory birds - varied and colorful - can be quiet an experience, isn't it? The finery of craftsmanship of Mewar (the Mewar School of Miniature Painting), add another stash of glory to this already proud Rajputana tourist-hub.

Tale of the City

Founded by Maharana Udai Singh in 1568, Udaipur is considered the jewel of Mewar. The Maharana of Udaipur is the highest ranked amongst Rajput rulers and is the head of the Suryavanshi (Solar) Rajput clan. It is also called the City of Sunrise and the Maharana's standard bears an image of the sun.

Attractions

City Palace: Towering over a serene lake Pichola is one of the most magnificent of Rajasthani palaces built in parts by its legendary Maharana kings, yet exuding a strange uniformity of structure. Today City Palace, as it is called, with with elegantly carved arches, cupolas, romantic balconies, is a regal Heritage Resort. The inhouse Museum has many treats to the vision - the Mor Chowk with its beautiful blue peacock mosaics, the Manak or Ruby Mahal has figures made in glass and porcelain, Krishna Vilas and Zanana Mahal has beautiful paintings and miniatures, Bari Mahal is known for its eclectic garden and the princely Chini Mahal is covered with ornamental tiles.

Lake Pichola: Udaipur's glittering necklace, 4 km long, is the Pichola lake. And like two pretty pendants are studded two palaces on the lake island - Jagniwas and Jagmandir. Jagniwas, now a Heritage Hotel, was the erstwhile summer retreat of prince of Mewar. While Jagmandir was constructed by Maharana Karan Singh to provide refuge to Shah Jehan, the reason being the latter was born of a Rajput mother. It is believed that this palace also provided some inspiration for the Prince's magna carta Taj Mahal. On the east bank is embellished the City Palace and a sprawling garden. A boat ride to the islands is undulating fun.

Jagdish Temple: Neighboring the City Palace is this classic Indo-Aryan shrine of Lord Vishnu, worshiped in a black-marbled image as Lord Jagannath.

Fateh Prakash Palace: An oriental beauty, preserved since the legacy of Maharana Fateh Singh, is this heritage palace-turned-hotel. The reflection of its magnificent turrets in the quiet waters of Fateh Sagar lake as you take a boat ride to the little island with a garden, creates an euphoria beyond words. The cafetaria at the island, serves excellent coffee.

Pratap Samak: The statue of Rajput demigod Maharana Pratap, who held the reigns of his homeland against the Mughals, stands proud atop the Moti Magri or the Pearl Hill, overlooking the Fateh Sagar Lake. Do drop by the interesting Japanese rock garden as you climb uphill.

Bharatiya Lok Kala (Udaipur Folk Museum): Here is where lies the virtual kaleidoscope to the heritage of this princely Rajput city. Look out for paintings, dolls, masks, musical instruments, dresses and the puppet show held almost regularly.
Shilpgram: The literal meaning is the Craftsmen's village and true to its name it is an archipelago of crafts from various Indian states like Maharashtra, Goa, Gujarat and of course, Rajasthan. However this ethnic village is is earmarked for its exquisite terracotta work mainly in dark red and dark brown and its wooden carvings. The 26 huts set amidst a sprawling 70 acres bordered by the Aravalli hills add a slush of panoramic beauty to this otherwise shopping joint.

Festivals of Udaipur: The Mewar Festival is celebrated to welcome the advent of spring every March at Udaipur. Co-inciding with the festival of Gangaur, celebrated all over Rajasthan, Mewar Festival is when a procession of chariots carrying idols of the goddess, embellished elephants, camels and men on horseback, women decked up in their best attires, all march their way through the streets of Udaipur to the Gangaur Ghat at Lake Pichhola. The idols are then set adrift the decorated boats at the Lake. And the vista of these boats, with idols, flowers and lights, floating across the pristine lake, create ‘magic’ for the spectators.

Shopping

Ladling your bags with local crafts is sine qua non for tourists visiting Udaipur. Wooden folk puppets, tie-and-dye sarees, enamel or Meenakari work, colorful turbans, hand painted fabrics, silver jewelery, wall hangings and miniature paintings in Rajput style are the tourist favorites. Chetak Circle, Clock Tower, Hathi Pol, Palace Road and the City Market are some of the best places to go shop-hunting. The shopping festival at Shilpgram, the craft village (mid-December) is not to be missed incase you are there during that season.

Rajasthali (Chetak Circle) the government-run handicraft shop, is a good place to both pick up basic handicrafts for fair prices. Mangalam (Sukhadia Circle) is best for textiles, handicrafts, dhurries (rugs), while at the City Palace Museum shop buy pichhwai paintings (wall hangings painted on cloth or silk, often featuring scenes from Lord Krishna's life). For some quality paintings consider visiting four-time national award winner Kamal Sharma (15A, New Colony, Kalaji-Goraji). Jagdish Emporium on City Palace Road has traditional Udaipur (and Gujarati) embroidery items.

Cuisine

Indian delicacies you should not miss here are the vegetarian delicacies like paneer do pyaja (cheese cooked with onion, tomato and chilies), matar paneer (Indian cheese curry with peas and tomatoes) and traditional non-vegerarian favorites like Afghani murgh malai tikka (creamy chicken kebabs) and the famed fish a la Jagat (local freshwater fish from Jaisamand Lake cooked in a lemon sauce and served with chips).

The Lake Palace Hotel, Udaivilas's Suryamahal and Udaimahal (Udaimahal open for dinner only) sum up for the royal traditional palates. Ambrai (beyond Lake Pichola Hotel), Natural View (atop the Evergreen Guest House), Cafe Hill Park (SW of Sajjan Niwas gardens), 16 Chef Restaurant (16 Gyan Marg) serve good multi-cuisine.
Getaways

Eklingi (22 km): A little hamlet that has shot to fame in the Hindu pilgrimage map with some of the most ancient temples. The 734 AD Shiva temple with the four-faced image of the lord in black marble looks ethereal. At Nagada, a km before Eklingi, there a flock of three old temples. The Sas Bahu ('Mother and Daughter in-law') temple is as interesting as its name.

Haldighati (40 km): This is where the iconic Maharana Pratap on his charger Chetak, defeated the Mughal forces of Akbar in 1576. The chhatri (umbrella-shaped cenopath) of Chetak, the loyal war-horse, makes this destination an attraction of a different kind.

Nathdwara (48 km): The temple enshrining the black stone image of Lord Vishnu here, as per a legend, sunk into the ground when attempts were being made to move it.

Kumbalgarh Fort (84 km): Ranked next to Chittorgarh, this is one must-see fort with a plethora of palaces and temples within its impregnable ramparts. Check out the horse/jeep safaris from here.

Deogarh (135 km): On the Udaipur-Jodhpur road is this grand castle turned hotel. The interiors are simply fascinating with dexterous carvings.

Jaisamand Lake (48 km): This is one of Asia's largest artificial lakes made during the 17th Century by Maharaja Jai Singh. With the marbled cenopaths around, the locale looks beautiful - just right for your photographing spree.

Location :
Southern Rajasthan

Go there for :
Palaces, Lakes, Museums

Climate :
28.8°-38.3°C (Sum); 11.6°-28.3°C (Win)

When to Go:
Sep-Mar

Local Tongue:
Marwari, Hindi

Literacy :
59.26%

STD Code :
+91 - 294

KHAJURAHO - NORTH INDIA

The very mention of Khajuraho, springs to mind a world of sculpted temples, cloistered covetously in the jungles of Madhya Pradesh. The 85 odd temples, dedicated to different Hindu deities, built during the 950-1050 AD by the Chandela kings, boggle the mind and their sight, belies the vision - because their maverick sculptures still seem too bold for what India seemingly portrays to be. The place still exudes that eerie quaintness, but amidst curious tourists, speckled archaeologists, the Taj Groups luxury lodges, the trinkets of the dancing maestros (Dance Festival every March), Khajuraho seems alien to its own gods.

Tale of the City

The town continued its religious importance until the 14th century, when it began to wade, perhaps under the Islamic influence. It was only in 1838, that a British army captain rediscovered this forgotten treasure trove and UNESCO followed suit by branding it a World Heritage Site about a century hence.

The Chandelas believed in the Tantric Cult which propounds that gratification of earthly desires is a step towards attaining the ultimate liberation. Tantrism as well as the expression of so-called erotica in the sculptures is often misunderstood. Whatever, be the debate and the conclusion, what interests us is the fact that their beliefs gave the world some of the inimitable expressions in stone.

Attractions

Temples

The Khajuraho temples are famed for their sculptural embellishments (minus the brouhaha over the eroticism of their postures). Their genesis dates back to the period of the Chandela dynasty which survived for five centuries before giving in to the Islamic onslaught. For the convenience of research, the locale has been sliced into three geographical sections - Western, Eastern and Southern groups.

Khajuraho Temple

The Western Group: Undeniably the best and most sensuous sculptures belong to this group. The baritone voice of Amitabh Bachhan, arguably India's most popular screen icon, narrates the fascinating history of Khajuraho for the 50-minute sound-and-light show held here every evening at 6:30pm.

The temples here include:

Lakshmi and Varaha Temple: Are two small shrines and the latter has a huge beautifully carved figure of the Varaha (wild boar), incarnation of Lord Vishnu worth seeing.

Lakshmana Temple: Has dexterously carved figures of Apsaras (celestial maidens) and the base of the temple has a frieze with scenes of the battles, hunting and processions.

Kandariya Mahadev: The largest (31 km high) and architecturally the most perfect, dedicated to Lord Shiva, has an interesting exterior with 646 statues and an equally amazing interior with 226 statues.

Mahadeva Temple: Though in ruins and probably the smallest temple, yet the sculpture of a sardula figure caressing a lion makes it a must-see.

Vishwanath Temple: Dedicated to Shiva, and his faithful vehicle Nandi (the cow). The depiction of women, fondling babies, writing letters, playing music and in some other erotic postures make it one of the most photographed temples.

Matangesvara Temple: The 2.5 m high Shiva lingum here is still worshiped and is perhaps the only temple here that is still used.

Chausath Yogini Temple: Believed to be the oldest here, it is only one made in granite, unfortunately in ruins now.

Devi Jagadamba Temple: The sculptures here are depicted in three bands running around the temple itself with the famous Mithunas (loving couples) on the uppermost one.

Chitragupta Temple: Dedicated to the Sun God (Surya), the sculptures depicting dancing maidens, elephant fights, hunting scenes and Surya driving his chariot and the 11-headed Vishu statue make the stroll in the complex very interesting.
Eastern Group: These are partly Hindu and partly Jain temples.

Adinath Temple: A typical Khajuraho Hindu temple, but with a striking black image that resonates a Jain temple.

Parasvanath Temple: Flanking the Adinath temple, is this largest Jain temple in Khajuraho. The feminine sculptures here echo classic, sensitive art more than anything else.

Shantinath Temple: Youthful, compared to its neighbors, where Digambara Jains come to worship Adinath.

Ghantai Temple: This has graceful carvings of the bell and chain motifs. The depiction of the 16 dreams of Mahavira's mother and a multi-armed Jain goddess riding on a winged Garuda are must dekko.

Javari Temple: With a plethora of Khajuraho maidens on the exteriors and Vishnu is the reigning deity.

Vamana Temple: Slightly older than the Javari Temple, stands alone in the middle of a field, dedicated to the dwarf incarnation of Vishnu.
Brahma and Hanuman Temple: One of the oldest in pure granite and actually dedicated to Vishnu and not Brahma. The nearby Hanuman temple has the earliest inscription dating back to 922 AD on a 2.5m statue.

Southern Group: With just two temples viz. Duladeo and Chaturbhuja. The sculptures here seem a monotonous repetition on the rest, perhaps built when the creativity of the artists were already beginning to fade.

Archaeological Museum (Open daily, except Fridays/Time: 10-5pm): Just near the Western group is a treasure trove housing some rare sculptures rescued from around Khajuraho. Here you can scrutinize closely the figures otherwise perched high on the walls.

Shilpgram: A 10-acre ethnic village with an heirloom of traditional crafts from various parts of India which can be both viewed and bought. The amphitheater within hosts various cultural programs.

Shopping

Shopping may not be a smooth sail out here in this quaint old city with touts and shopkeepers known for their irrefutable persistence. But if you are an adamant buyer and pick exactly what you want, then any place can be your shopping hub.

The ethnic souvenirs are erotic mini sculptures and a wide range of handicrafts. The areas around the temple complexes remain a shoppers bee-hive. Head for Shilpgram, the ethnic arcade, Artist ((Surya Hotel Complex, Jain Temple Rd.) for good buys. The latter has exquisite paintings on silk, fabric, and paper, and also some clever foldaway chairs, tables, and ornamental pieces at prices so low they'll make your head spin. And if you want some authentic Mughal art, you will have to find your way from here to either of the two Artist outlets in Khajuraho.

Cuisine

Now Khajuraho is not exactly a gourmet's dream come true, but you can have some luscious dishes on your palate if you check out the restaurants in the Five Stars. For snacks and mini-meals go to Raja's Café, while for delectable Gujrati food go to Shivam Restaurant. Try Italian at Mediterraneo and Japanese at Sakura.
Snippets

Legend behind the scluptures: A lore goes that Hemawati, the lovely daughter of a Brahmin priest, was seduced by the moon-god while bathing in a forest pool. The child born of this union was Chandravarman, founder of the Chandela dynasty. Brought up in the forests by his mother who sought refuge from a censorious society, Chandravarma, when established as a ruler, had a dream visitation from his mother who implored him to build temples that would reveal human passions. And the rest is history.

The Khajuraho Dance Festival: The classical dance maestros from across the nation match their steps during this week-long cultural fiesta with the silhouetted temples in the background. Khajuraho serves the befitting venue for 'expressions' in different hues right from Kathak, Bharatnatyam, Kuchipudi, Odissi, Manipuri, and many more, in a land where the best is still expressed in the age-old stones.

Getaways

Dhubela (64 km): On the Khajuraho-Jhansi route is this old fort housing a rare collection of artifacts depicting the heritage of Bundelkhand through the Shaki cult sculptures and a cache of weapons, clothes and personal memorabilia of the Bundela rulers.

Ken Gharial Sanctuary (24 km): Here is where you will see a fearsome gang of the Indian gharial or the long-snouted crocodile basking recklessly under the sun.

Pandav Falls (32 km): The cascading Pandav Falls on the mighty Ken river samples a sight not to be missed.

Panna National Park (44 km): A fascinating wildlife park to head if you have a tiger fixation. Other wildlife life like deer, leopards, langur and sambar and about 300 avian species abound. The less known fact is this that Panna houses some beautiful temples which are a fine blend of Hindu and Islam architecture. Once there, consider a traip to the Raneh Falls and the Majhgawan Diamond Mines (Asias largest) close by.

Ajaygarh Fort (36 km from Panna) and Kalinjar Fort (25 km northwards): Ajaygarh is an old Chandela fort, built at an elevation of 688 m, to the ward off intruders still resonates something of that lost galore. Kalinjar Fort was an original Gupta product captured by the Chandelas later.

Banisagar Lake/Dam (11 km): This is a fine spot for picnicking while the adventure mongers can try boating and angling. Note: For angling and fishing prior permission must be gained from the Assistant Director Fisheries Department, Nowgong, Madhya Pradesh.

Orchha (150 km): On Jhansi-Khajuraho highway, is this medieval city flanked by the Betwa River and home to some beautiful 16th and 17th century palaces and temples. Paintings and mirror-work and intricate stairways in Jehangir Mahal, Raj Mahal and Rai Praveen Mahal are enchanting. The Ram Raja, Chaturbhuj and Laxmi Narayan temples and cenotaphs also worth a meander around.

Location :
Northern tip of Madhya Pradesh

Go there for :
Temples, Sculptures

Climate :
20°-45°C (Sun); 5°-27°C (Win)

When to Go:
Aug-Mar

Literacy :
53%

STD Code :
+91 - 7686

AMRISTAR - NORTH INDIA

Believers’ land

Northwestern Punjab (NW India) cradles the seat of Sikhism Amritsar, with the quintessential Temple in marble, bronze and gold leaf. Not just the fascinating Golden Temple, Amritsar’s claim to fame also owes to the founder of Sikhism, Guru Nanak and Gautam Buddha, the founder of Buddhism, who found this land befitting to meditate in a gap of some 2000 years. Legends even have it that saint Valmiki wrote the great religious epic Ramayana here. A halo exudes from this land --- not for your vision, but for your senses, that leaves you sanctified by the time you are ready to leave.

Tale of the City

The city’s genesis can be traced back to the then prevailing belief that the waters of its lake (the present Amrit Sarovar or the lake of Nectar) had medicinal properties that could cure ailments as serious as leprosy. This place became the obvious choice of Guru Amar Das and his successor Ram Das to lay the cornerstone of their faith. By 1577 a tank was constructed and believers etched a small village its vicinity. The fifth Sikh Guru Arjan Sahib, constructed a temple right at the middle of that tank. Legends have it that at his behest Hazrat Mian Mir ji of Lahore (a Muslim peer), laid the cornerstone of the temple in December, 1588. Laborious toils of Sikh devotees followed to give to the world one of its most beautiful shrines ever. The tank was christened Amritsar - that became the very name of that place.

Attractions

The Golden Temple: The Golden Temple, popular as Sri Harmandir Sahib or Sri Darbar Sahib, is the sacred seat of Sikhism. Bathed in a quintessential golden hue that dazzles in the serene waters of the Amrit Sarovar that lace around it, the swarn mandir (Golden temple) is one that internalizes in the mindscape of its visitors, no matter what religion or creed, as one of the most magnificent House of Worship. On a jewel-studded platform is the Adi Grantha or the sacred scripture of Sikhs wherein are enshrined holy inscriptions by the ten Sikh gurus and various Hindu and Moslem saints.While visiting the Golden Temple you need to cover your head. Street sellers sell bandanas outside the temple at cheap prices.

Monument of Jalianwala Bagh: This is the Martyr's Memorial built in the memory of the unarmed people who died in an open firing by General Dyer on April13, 1919. The place still resonates of the tragedy that registers itself as one of the cruelest in the history of humanity.

Ram Bagh: Here is the summer palace of Maharaja Ranjit Singh and a museum. This garden is laid out on the pattern of Shalimar Bagh at Lahore. The museum houses miniatures, coins, weapons and the replica of most famous diamond Kohinoor.

Mata Mandir Temple: An old pious lady built a Hindu temple at Rani ka Bagh, in the lines of holy shrine of Mata Vaishno Devi at Katra (Jammu). Pilgrims from far and wide flock to seek the late Mata’s blessings.

Shopping

Shop at the Hall Bazar and Lawrence Road for souvenirs and other branded wears. Do not forget to pack your bags with some exquisite Amritsari woolens and blankets, juttis and embroidered stuff.

A lesser known fact is that 99% of the world's wooden chess is made in Amritsar ! Not just simple wooden chess, here you can buy Camel Bone Chess, Artistic Chess, Chess Boards, Chess Boxes and what not. Go to Focal Point (industrial Area) and you'll find many small houses who make chess boards right at their homes. Another souvenir is the orange colored Golden Temple banadana -- buy one for yourself and then a whole bunch for friends.

Cuisine

Amritsaris love to eat, drink and be merry. Punjabi culinary has always been a gourmet’s delight and with dhabas (roadside restaurants) at every bend of street, there is no end to feasting your taste buds. Piping-hot Makke di roti (corn-flour flatbreads), Sarso da saag (fried mustard leaves), lassi (yogurt shake) are the pride-of-the-platter amongst other concoctions. Butter and milk are an important and indispensable part of everything. And needless to say, a heavenly hiatus from those dietery regimes.

Some spots to head to: Kesar da Dhaba in Bazaar Passian for vegetarian food, Makhan Dhaba (Lawrence Rd.) for luscious Amritsari fish, Kundan Dhaba (opposite Hall Gate) for yummiest traditional Punjabi platter, Ahuja Lassiwalla (near Hindu Mahasabha College) for that glass of lip-smacking Lassi, Surjit Chicken (Lawrence Rd.) for delicious butter chicken and kulchas or lachedar parathas, Crystal for your very familiar Chinese and Continental cuisines, but with an emphasis on North Indian specialties.

Snippets

The Five “K’s” of the Sikh’s: The most distinguishing feature of every Sikh is undoubtedly the turban and the beard. Other than that, Sikh’s have five must-have’s known as kakkar in Punjabi to stand united as part of Guru Gobind Singh's sacred Khalsa brotherhood --- Kesh (hair they are not supposed to cut their hair ever), Kangha (comb, to keep the hair neat), Kirpan (saber or sword a symbol of dignity), Kaccha (loose underpants a symbol of their modesty), Karra (traditional steel bangle symbol of fearlessness).

Getaways

Wagah Border (28 km): Wagah, an army outpost on Indo-Pak border is of tourist interest because of the “Beating the Retreat” ceremony every evening. Soldiers from both countries march in perfect drill and the ceremonial lowering of the flags is carried out with great pomp. As the sun sets, nationalistic fervor reaches its zenith and lights are switched on amidst thunderous applause.

35 Gurudwaras around Amritsar: Buses leave from the clock tower near the Golden Temple at 8 am and returns around 5 pm after touring the 35 Gurudwaras including those at Gobindwala, Tarn Taran, Baba Bikala, Buddha Sahib, Khadoor Sahib, Damdama Sahib and Chheharta.

Hari-ka-patan: Situated just outside the city at the confluence of the Beas and Sutlej rivers, this is a favorite picnic spot peopled by tourists, myriad birds and anglers.


Location :
In Punjab, 410km NW of Delhi

Go there for :
Golden Temple, Wagah Border

Climate :
34°-15°C (Sum); 18°-0°C (Win)

When to Go:
Oct - Mar

Local Tongue:
Punjabi

Literacy :
71%

STD Code :
+91 - 183